ASSESSMENT 3 : PORTFOLIO
WEEK 1
During our first week of Introduction to Pattern Drafting and Garment Making, we dived right into exercises. Before the class started, we were briefed on the importance of pattern drafting. Then, Ms. Melina had gone through with us on how to properly use the sewing machines and it's many functions.
Figure 1
Ms. Melina is explaining to us on how to thread the machine and bobbin.
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Figure 2
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I tried to thread the machine according to Ms. Melina's instructions.
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After learning how to thread the machine, we began to start our first sewing exercises. The first exercises include straight stitch, curve and corner line.
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Before.
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Figure 6
The straight stitches were easy to go about as it was just a straight line going down.
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As for the corners, I had some struggles with the sewing machine as it was too fast and I could not control it properly. Hence, I sewed the curves really slowly and took my time to get the right circle.
After.
Next, we did a plain open seam without overlock. We ironed 2 A4 sized calicos and sewed it straight down with the two pieces facing each other.
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Figure 8
Before.
We then ironed the seam open and filed it into our own respective files for future uses.
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After.
During the weekend we had a field trip with Ms. Melina to learn about different fabrics in more detail and to get essentials for our classes.
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Figure 14
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Figure 15
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We learnt about the different types of fabric and how to use them for different sewing projects, For an example,
1. A common fabric that's known and loved is cotton. It's usually used to make socks, t-shirts, underwear, and many more.
2. Velvet fabric: Woven fabric made of silk, cotton, linen, wool etc. This fabric is used in making daily wearable cloth, home decor etc.
3. Stretch fabric: Specialty fabric. It is a normal fabric which starches in all four directions. It came in mainstream in 1990s and widely used in making sportswear.
4. Quilted fabric: Woven fabric. It can be blend of wool, cotton, polyester, silk many more. It is used to make bags, clothing, mattresses etc.
5. Poplin fabric: Woven fabric used for jackets, shirt, raincoat etc. it is made by polyester, cotton and its blend. As coarse weft yarns are used its ribs are heavy and prominent. It is also most frequently used types of fabric.
AND MANY MORE!!
It was an enjoyable time to learn about the places to get the fabric and uses of certain fabrics.
WEEK 2
HAND SEWING:
We then began learning hand sewing techniques that would later be useful for us in the future while making our final garments.
Figure 11
Running stitch.
A simple needlework stitch consisting of a line of small even stitches which run back and forth through the cloth without overlapping.
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Figure 12
Catch stitch.
When finishing the inside of a garment, a catch stitch, sometimes called a herringbone stitch, is useful for tacking hems and seam allowance. .jpeg)
Figure 13
Hemming stitch.
A stitch used in sewing hems on skirts and dresses
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Figure 14
Basting stitch.
The basting stitch, also known as tacking, can be defined as a long running stitch mainly used to temporarily hold two or more layers of fabric together until they can be properly sewn with a permanent stitch.
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Figure 15
Invisible stitch.
An invisible stitch in sewing is a method of joining two pieces of fabric so that the stitch thread is invisible, or nearly invisible. Invisible stitching hides stitching under folded edges. Therefore, this type of stitch can be used to create a blind hem or to join two folded edges together.
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Figure 16
Overcast stitch.
Overcast stitching is a type of edge finishing stitch. It can be sewn by hand or using an overcast stitch machine. This stitch can be used to neaten up edges and prevent raw edges of fabric unraveling.
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Figure 17
Back stitch
Back stitch is a type of sewing and embroidery stitch that forms a solid line of stitching on both sides of the fabric. It is made by sewing one stitch length backward on the front side and two stitch lengths forward on the reverse side. It is often used to outline shapes and add fine detail to an embroidered picture.
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Figure 18
Slipstitch
A loose stitch joining layers of fabric and not visible externally.
WEEK 3
During week 3 we started on dart manipulation and men's block size 12 for the final submission.
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Figure 1
First, we traced out the bodice in 1/4 scale onto mahjong paper using the blocks that were given to us. We then marked the darts that we wanted to use. After that we slashed the darts and placed a scrap mahjong paper underneath it. We then glued the sides and closed the dart. By using a tracing wheel, we marked the darts and trimmed the excess paper off. By this we have a proper dart manipulated base.
Lastly, we transferred the tracing into calico and cut it out. Then, we sewed the darts shut with a straight stitch following the line.
Figure 2
Same goes for the dart above but this is with the back bodice with shoulder and waist darts.
Figure 3
This is me tracing the darts onto the calico to sew a proper straight line.
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Figure 4
French dart
The French dart is a diagonal dart from the side seam up to the bust point. It is created by transferring the excess in the waist dart into a dart at the lower side seam.
It was a little tricky to do the french dart base on the mahjong paper as it required a lot of folding.
Figure 5
Centre front back dart.
This dart was quite simple. We slashed the dart at the center front back and folded it at the bottom. We then placed a scrap paper underneath, traced the shape with a tracing wheel and cut off the excess. Add seam allowance then cut the calico.
WEEK 4
I then started to finish up my seam exercises for final submission. I actually really enjoyed doing this as it required more technical and sewing work with the machine. Through this I learnt the various types of seams that I could use in my final garments.
Figure 3
Plain open overlocked seam.
I overlocked the edges of 2 pieces of calico then sewed it straight down with a normal stitch.
Figure 4
Plain seam folded and overlocked.
Overlocked 2 pieces of calico together the sewed 1/2 an inch away from the edge straight down.
Figure 5
Plain seam finish with edge stitches.
Secures and neatens the raw edges of a plain seam to prevent raveling, by sewing over the raw edges or enclosing them in some sort of binding.
Figure 6
Overlocked edges.
Figure 7
French seam
Raw edges of the fabric tucked in and sewn.
Figure 8
Mock-French seam.
Has two stitch lines that tucks away the raw edges.
Figure 9
Flat-felled seam
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Zigzagged edges
Figure 11
Pinked edges
Figure 12
Edge stitch
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Double topstitch
Figure 14
Welt stitch
WEEK 6
Throughout week 6, we had a guest visit, Mr. Dai Fujiwara. He had joined us and gave a talk during this week. He inspired us to create our very own designs with simplicity but with much thought put into it.
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Mr. Dai had given us a talk which included his experience in the industry and how he came to the place he is in today. It was very inspiring. He had also share with us one of his fashion show videos which included a simple transformation design that involved just folding paper tissues that he was inspired by while dining at a restaurant.
On the second day of the workshop, we were separated into a group of 3 and started to design our own garment without any restriction. We were given freedom for our designs that allowed us to venture out in our creativity.
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We started by manipulating the fabric and creating our very own pattern. We wanted to symbolize a very frustrated emotion and just letting it all out hence the name, SCREAM.
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attempted to do pintucks but it was too much of work and due to the time constraint we decided not to continue with it.
Adding pleats to the design to create a contrast of texture.
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Draping on the dummy.
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Modeling for the presentation
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The pictures turned out amazing.
In conclusion, during this workshop I learnt that it was difficult to work in a team since everyone has different creative ideas and was difficult to communicate with what each one of us wanted. But in the end, we pulled through. Although the design wasn't perfectly constructed and delivered, I am happy that we got to do this workshop as it has opened up my eyes on what I want to be doing and how to get better.
THE SHOW
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FINAL PRESENTATION
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