Task 01: GARMENT DRAPING – BASIC TOP

 

Draping is a technique used to make a 3-dimensional dress pattern with the aid of a dress form figure by pinning and placing fabric against the form to create a garment. Typically, designers use muslin, which is cost-efficient and offered in a variety of weights. 

To start off the project, we started constructing our bust tape with the measurement of 8cm wide and 50cm in length. For this assignment, I used calico. After measuring out the bust tape, I cut it out. Then, ironed the bust tape while folding it into 4 equal parts. 

This is how the bust tape looked like after ironing it. 

Firstly, we opened up the folds and sewed a straight line down the center then sewed a topstitch 1cm folding both ends. After folding it back, sew a straight line across the center. length wise. The bust tape is then ready to be used.

I had taped the bust tape across the bust line onto the mannequin with the center stitch matching to the left of the CFL.

PREPARING THE CALICO :

We were required to cut two pieces of calico for the front and back of the bodice.

FRONT : 50cm(length) x 33cm(width).

BACK : 55cm(length) x 32cm(width).

The 2 pieces of calico is then ironed. Then, we drew a 2cm line on the grain line then folded and ironed.

PLACING DRAPING TAPE ONTO THE DUMMY:

FRONT: 

1. draping neck: the depth of 1cm from the center front neck point. Connected to the back 0.5cm below the center back neck point.  

2. Centre front length: 32cm 

3. Bust line: shoulder neck point to bust point: 24.5cm. Then, tape around while making sure that bust line to side seam is 23cm.

4. Princess line: 1/2 armhole 

5. Shoulder: neck point to shoulder point = 12cm.

BACK: 

1. Centre back length: 38cm
2. Shoulder blade line: 11 cm from neckline 
3. Bust line: 21cm from neckline. 
4. Centre back to side seam on bust line: 22cm 
5. Princess line: 1/2 shoulder length 

DONE WITH TAPING THE MANNEQUIN!

DRAPING THE MANNEQUIN: 

FRONT

MARK ON THE CALICO ALL THE VISIBLE LINES SUCH AS: SIDE SEAM, BUST LINE, NECKLINE AND WAISTLINE.

1. Pin the bust tape onto the mannequin. Match the calico on the bust line (cross pin method) with the folded side on top of the CF line. 

Pin the waistline.

2. Waist dart: 3cm width on the princess line. 

3. snip between the princess line to the side seam 2cm apart (stop at the waistline)

*Pull any excess into the dart to create a more fitted look*

4. snip the neck point with 2 cm distance till the neckline.

5. shoulder dart: 4.5-5cm width on the princess line.  

BACK

1. By using the shoulder blade line as reference, drape the calico on the mannequin. (cross pin method)

the folded part is placed on top of the CBL. 

pin on the lines of the bust line, neckline and waistline.

4. from the princess line, the dart is 3cm wide and 8 cm in length.

5. snip between the PL and SS till the WL.

6. Pin the side seam

7. cut 2cm above neck line and snip the calico at 1 cm around the neck line 

8. shoulder dart: 1.5cm width and 8cm length on the princess line. (match the dart with the front shoulder dart)

9. Mark all the points on the calico.

ADJUSTMENTS:

1. Correcting the armhole curves.

2. Adjusting the waistline and slightly curving it.

3. Matching the shoulder darts.

4. Matching the necklines and adjusting the curves.

5. Matching the armhole for front and back.

Transferring it onto mahjong paper. 

Tracing the calico piece that was draped onto the mahjong paper. 

FRONT

BACK

THE END!